When researching the different types of denim, you may come across a term called “selvage.” It’s certainly not as popular as dry or raw denim, but many companies still use selvage denim in their products.
Selvage denim is a type of cotton twill fabric — just like raw or dry denim — that’s woven together to create a stronger, more durable textile. What makes it unique, however, is the way in which it woven. Selvage denim is created through the use of a single continuous cross-yard called the weft. The person or people creating selvage denim weave the weft back and forth through the warp upright warp beams, never cutting or breaking the single weft. In most cases, the edges feature a contrasting warp, such as red, allowing the creator to see exactly where the weft begins and where it ends.
While there are several different methods for creating selvage denim, many people prefer to use shuttle looms. This otherwise simple tool weaves a narrow 30-inch fabric back and forth; thus, creating the unique pattern of selvage denim. Because the shuttle loom uses fabric that’s roughly half the size of a shutlleless loom, longer pieces of fabric are required (roughly three yards at minimum.
In an effort to produce more denim and eliminate waste, companies often create jeans using wide denim that have a straight outseam. This allows them to utilize the full width of the fabric, including the edges. Selvage denim is frequently used in the production of premium, high-end jeans, as it shows the finished edges in a contrasting color as opposed to the overlocked edges on traditional jeans. Of course, there are always exceptions to this rule, but you’ll generally find that most premium jeans are made of selvage denim rather than dry or raw denim.
There are some downsides to selvage denim, however, such as the increased difficulty for producing it. Because it’s made from a single continuous thread, there’s less room for error. If the individual creating the selvage denim makes a mistake, it could ruin the entire fabric, forcing him or her to start again from scratch. Thankfully, mistakes such as this are few and far between, but they do occur.
Video: What is Selvage Denim?
Check out the video above to see an example of jeans made of selvage denim. The roughly 4-minute-long video reveals the subtle details that distinguish selvage denim from other types of denim.
